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Phyl Couture Fall'09: Catherine Cami in Emerald

Jamie Phyl, the New York City based clothing designer of Phyl Couture offers a simple philosophy regarding women’s clothing. She believes that women feel the most stylish and sexy when comfortable in what they are wearing. Anyone who has required the assistance of their doorman to button, sew, tuck and/or zip them into a garment will appreciate the styling of this contemporary designer. Jamie truly understands that women want to feel confident and is able to deliver it beautifully. Through the prevalent use of soft jersey, her body-conscious designs are positively charming with flirty touches such as architectural detailing, bows, buttons and stitching.

Born and raised in Philadelphia, Jamie’s early interest in fashion was influenced by her grandparents—a fashion designer and master tailor. Jamie further honed her skills at the highly regarded Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. Prior to opening her own line, Jamie sought guidance and experience while working in design and merchandising at Amani Collezioni, Ralph Lauren, Liz Claiborne and Tracy Reese.

Check out Phyl Couture online as well as in boutiques throughout the United States.

My exclusive interview with Jamie Phyl, below:

Jamie (right) working with a model in her studio

What is it that inspires you?

I am inspired by many things: art, architecture, music and textiles.  One thing that inspires me the most is interior design. I love wallpaper and upholstery prints.

I love the color stories that I find in table linens and carpet and pillow designs.  And I love putting them all together in new and interesting ways.

How do you translate that through your designs?

One main way I translate it is through my color palette. I always find new ways to put colors together by looking at interiors.

Take me through your design process. How long does it usually take? How do you begin the process?

The design process for me begins with the silhouettes.  I sketch out the entire collection of tops, skirts, dresses, jackets, shorts and/or pants.  Once I have the bodies I want to make, I have to send all of the measurements and technical sketches of each one to my factory.  From there I choose which fabrics I am going to use for each garment.  And then I choose my color story and work on designing prints.  It’s all a balancing act to make sure each piece comes out beautifully and at the same time have the collection flow as a whole.  That is the most challenging part of the designing process.

Then comes the technical work.  Samples are sent back to me and I measure them, fit them and send corrections back to my factory.  This may happen anywhere from one to three times per garment before a sales sample is made to show to buyers.  I also receive lab dips, which are swatches of the fabrics in the colors I choose.  I have to approve all fabrics and colors before they are knit and dyed.  The whole process together takes about 4-5 months.  After that time I receive my sample lines to send to my sales reps, who begin showing them to buyers for the next season.

What is a typical day like?

I don’t think I have a “typical” day, which I love!  Some days I spend sketching, designing or fitting samples.  Some days I have appointments in the showroom.  Some days I spend going back and forth with stores and the warehouse to make sure orders go out or our inventory is correct.  And some days I run around like a chicken without a head trying to get all of it done!

How did FIT prepare you for a career as a fashion designer?

Going to FIT was one of the best experiences of my life. My professors were industry professionals and I could not have asked for better teachers or preparation for my career.

What is it that you found appealing about this career?

This career appealed to me because it was the most challenging thing I had ever done on so many levels. To have your own clothing line you have to constantly go back and forth between the business end and the creative end.  It is fast-paced and waits for no one!  Every season you literally have to start over with a new collection and are faced with new challenges. I have always chosen the path that is the most difficult and challenging for me because I find it the most interesting.

What are some of the benefits?

Having creative and artistic freedom is one of the best things of designing my own line. I work more hours than I would if I worked for another company, but I get to make my own schedule, which is invaluable!

Sacrifices?

Oh, there have been many sacrifices!  Sometimes it is my peace of mind (laughs)!  I equate my business to being my child. That is how much I care about it and put it before myself.

Who or what are your most reliable resources?

My most reliable resources have always been my parents.  They have believed in me since day one and have never wavered.  My father always tells me when I am feeling down or having a particularly bad day, that he believes, ‘It is not a matter of if, but a matter of when’ in terms of making it big. Just knowing that someone else believes in you that much helps me to believe in myself.

Phyl Couture Fall'09: Jillian Coat

When I wear your designs, I feel entirely comfortable, sexy and at ease. What do you keep in mind while designing? A particular aesthetic or feeling?

It helps that I am a woman and fit the demographic of my customer!

I love that you feel comfortable and sexy in my designs - that is my ultimate goal!

I try to create clothes that are current and on trend but are also different than what you find everywhere else and hopefully more timeless.  A lot of my designs can be casual/ daytime looks or can be dressed up for a night out.  I definitely have my own point of view and hope that it shows not only when looking at the collection as a whole, but in each individual garment.

What does it feel like when you see someone wearing a design of yours on the street?

That is one of my favorite things in the world! It’s just a great feeling to know that someone likes your designs enough to buy them and wear them. That’s what makes me the happiest and keeps me going.

What does success mean to you? Have you achieved it?

Wow, good question! I think success to me means being able to do what you love, achieve your goals, and to make the means necessary to continue doing it. I don’t know if I will ever think of myself as successful because I always want to grow more and do more. I don’t think there will ever be a time when I will think that I have achieved all that I have wanted to achieve.

Who are some of your favorite designers?

I always look forward to seeing what John Galliano will do next!  Alexander McQueen is amazing as well. I love to wear pieces by Diane Von Furstenberg, Tracy Reese, Susana Monaco and Nicole Miller.

You feel best when wearing…?

Anything I feel comfortable and sexy in.

What are your go-to outfits and accessories?

My go-to outfit this summer is a short dress and gladiator sandals.  Dresses are so easy to throw on quickly and look cute and put together.  I am definitely a jeans girl though, my favorite being my True Religion jeans.  My favorite new accessory would have to be a vintage, brown leather Coach bag, which I just found at a thrift store in the East Village.  It is big enough to fit my computer, which I take with me everywhere.  It was my best find this season! 

What do you think is the greatest fashion mistake or faux pas that someone can make?

The biggest fashion faux pas is wearing something you are not comfortable in or doesn’t fit well.  When you feel comfortable in what you wear, you come across as more confident, which is always sexy!

What advice would you share with someone who would like to begin a career in fashion?

My advice would be to make sure this is your passion because it is a lot of hard work and long hours. If you love it, it will be very rewarding.  As my uncle told me when I was just starting out, “This will be the most stress you will ever experience and the most fun you will ever have.”  It may sound funny, but it’s true!

Where would you like to be in ten years?

That’s a really tough question for me - I am not a planner!  I just hope that wherever I am and whatever I am doing that I am happy.